The ride up the hill out of Puerto Andratx was the hardest of the trip. Hangovers in tow (it was the fault of the last beer, by Rosco's estimation), on top of a lack of proper sleep and a disappointing breakfast, we knew our work was far from over for the first part of this ride.
The Mallorca south-west coast has the most concentrated areas for tourism on the island. Extending from Santa Ponsa through Magaluf, Palmanova, Palma city centre and all around the bay on the Playa de Palma to S'Arenal in the east. Mallorca's tourism is predominantly generated from Germany and the UK, and to a lesser extent from Scandinavia, Holland, etc. Cheap European flights and the lure of the package holiday paradise has resulted in the majority of Mallorca's resorts taking on the culture and characteristics associated with their primary punters. Generally, the resorts south of Palma are largely English, including Palmanova and the notorious Magaluf. Resorts east of Palma along the Playa de Palma are again almost exclusively German, and to a lesser extent Dutch. This adds a particular vibe to the resort towns, and clearly identifies the major cultural group in situ. This again reinforces the mentality that people want to go on holiday to a different country, climate and culture, but still want to live exactly as they do at home!
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| Potsdam Germany? No, Paguera Mallorca...Oompah band on the roundabout. |
The day's intended destination would be Palma, on the way back to Alaro. In cycling terms the ride of about 50km would be fairly flat and easy, and largely a gentle downhill for the final stretch into Palma. The route took us along the coast via Camp de Mar, Port Adriano, Paguera (a German encalve in the midst of Oktoberfest or Fiesta de la Cerveza) and Santa Ponsa. It was also along this stretch that Rosco would have his come-uppance and have a laugh at the expense of yours truly. At Port Adriano, on reaching a cycle crossing along the bike path, I slowed down to a stop and promptly forgot that I needed to click out of at least one pedal. On cue, and in perfectly choreographed slow motion, I keeled over onto the sidewalk in full view of an audience of waiting traffic, pedestrians and the odd jogger. Physically I was fine, with my pride unfortunately signing up for the full force of the damage.
Over a much needed usual breakfast of poached eggs, juice and black coffee, the effects of the previous night finally bade farewell, and a stunning day in terms of weather made an appearance. It was then agreed that we would go and find a beach for a few hours and actually enjoy the fruits of the previous few day's work.
A 9km detour from the main cycle route took us to Portals Vells, another favourite beach, that is, to those that know how to find it. A short distance from the madness of Magaluf, Portals Vells is a gem of a cove well hidden in the rugged coastline. Natural surrounds, large caves in the rock, a protected sandy beach and warm crystal clear waters make Portals Vells a popular spot. In the high season, dozens of yachts and cruisers drop anchor here and enjoy the surrounds, the beach restaurant and perfect snorkelling conditions.
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| Portals Vells |
The road to Portals Vells is essentially a farm track or 'cami' that has been roughly tarred and filled in with concrete. This meant a rattling ride for us, with every joint taking a battering, but the rewards were all too good. Bright warm weather, the warm sea and a lie on the soft sand made for an exceptional couple of hours. It was hard to leave, but we had to get back to Palma, and Alaro before the light faded. The steep hill out of Portals Vells goaded us after a good relax, but this detour made for another highlight of this trip.
An uneventful ride lay ahead as we headed through Magaluf and Palmanova on a dedicated bike track, one of many around Palma designed for cyclist's pleasure and safety. On cue, the smug serenity of the day came to a very profane end as Rosco announced another blow-out. The back tyre had basically given up after the week's riding, and was the likely reason for the number of blow-outs. I watched the traffic roll down the hill while confirming our inventory of five punctured inner-tubes (and no glue fix) as Rosco made his repairs.
A short distance later we found ourselves back on the Paseo Maritimo along Palma’s marina. Exactly a week before, we had been at this very spot for the stag weekend, but now under very different conditions i.e. sweaty and salty, soapless, unshaven and unmoisturised.
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| Small Rewards... |
Also the site of the bike hire shop, Rosco experienced the non-existence of Mallorquine customer service as he attempted to get the back tyre replaced, albeit for only one more day of riding to follow. A short argument later we had a slightly less old and worn tyre on Rosco's bike and much-needed glue for the repair kit.
The sun sinking fast, the next part of the journey would have to be by train, from Palma back home to Alaro. A short 5km sprint took us into Alaro in near darkness, but this did not cast any shadow on the thrill of the previous 5 days. In our minds it was a great achievement and awesome experience of Mallorca's beauty and diversity.
A welcoming committee was laid on in the form of my niece and nephews Neve, Seth and Finn as they greeted us excitedly at the gate. Despite Seth's insistence that if we dared enter, he would “put an octopus on your face”, it would be a happy trade-off as it meant being home for a guaranteed hot shower, soap and much-needed moisturiser on my part!
Castell d'Alaro
Back in Alaro after 5 great days on the bike, our next challenge would be pedal-free and take the form of a hike up to Castell d'Alaro, the ruins of an old Moorish castle overlooking the full length island's interior from the heights of Puig d'Alaro.
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| Castell d'Alaro |
Intending an early start, the weather had other ideas. The rain came down, torrential and continuous through the night and early morning. This would not make great conditions for anything in the outdoors. However, a mid-morning break saw the clouds lift off the mountain tops, and the decision was made to go for it, once again. Rain jackets at the ready we set-off up the hill.
For good reason Castell d'Alaro is one of the island's favourite hiking trails. The 10km return journey officially starts in the village plaza, climbing rapidly over 600m to a final height of 821m above sea level. Despite the first 3km being on a road, the direct route to the castle is by no means easy. Inclines are steep, and once away from the relative comfort of tarmac, the paths are rocky and quite treacherous.
Meeting a short rainstorm on the the way, this would be the last of the bad weather we would encounter for the day. Once at the top, we were treated to the clouds clearing quickly over the mountain in quite spectacular fashion, and the sun carving out excellent views over the island. Although the castle ruins are sparse, the fact they are perched on 200 to 300m sheer cliffs makes for an incredible setting. It is hard to imagine how this castle would have been built half a dozen centuries before with only the aid of dirt tracks and mules. By comparison, repair work recently done on the 'refugi' (centre for hikers accommodation) on a ridge above the castle, could not be completed without the aid of military helicopters lifting the building materials.
The journey down took a different route via a forest service road, leading to the famed Es Verger restaurant. This popular eatery is renowned for it's shoulder of lamb, with both locals and visitors travelling from all corners of the island to experience the pleasure. We were no different - a South African and New Zealander - carnivorous by nature. Rosco does consider himself an aficionado of lamb, so a visit to Es Verger was in-essence compulsory. We were not disappointed with a succulent lamb shoulder complemented by a delicious light local white wine. At the recommendation of a German couple at the adjacent table, dessert came in the form of a rather potent flaming coffee made with Tia Maria, coffee beans and lemon. The drink is delivered alight in a terracotta bowl, with a ladle provided to stir off the burning alcohol, then to be served into small glasses. Legend has it that over the years a few too many of these high-octane coffees has resulted in the odd disaster-filled descent back down the mountainside to Alaro.
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| Men. The best Gillette Can Get. |
A great day on the mountain ended with a with an excellent steak bbq, hosted by friends, a Kiwi couple also resident in Alaro. Compulsory too was a stop-off at my regular pub on the way home for 'Herbes Mallorquines', a local herbal liqueur, and a few smooth single malts, all for medicinal purposes of course.
Day 6
Single malt Scotch whiskey is not a performance enhancer. This we quickly learnt on our last cycling leg, “the Orient Express”, a quick-fire 40km circular route from Alaro via the Orient Valley, Bunyola and Santa Maria.
As expected, the testing steep climb out of Alaro runs between Puig' d'Alaro and Puig d'Alcadana, into a beautiful sun-drenched valley equally appealing to hikers and cyclists. The village of Orient is nestled in the valley, and a popular destination for discerning travellers. The area boasts a few highly regarded restaurants, and several boutique hotels in and around the town.
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| Scotch on the rocks? |
From Orient, the ride would take us along the spine of the valley, snaking into a second tree-lined pass. This would truly be our last experience of the mountains. Once over the pass, the 7km descent into Bunyola brought with it the rain that had threatened us on the third day back in Puerto Alcudia. A wet ride down a mountain insists on total concentration, the occasional slide of the bike's back wheel around the hairpin bends providing a stark reminder. Donning our rain gear in Bunyola, we launched into a very wet and final 20km back to Alaro via the winelands around Santa Maria.
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| Orient |
Home and drenched, we clicked out of the pedals for the final time, truly invigorated by the entire experience.
In retrospect, the challenge and splendour of this Mallorca adventure has only left a distinct craving for more. The reality is that there is still the east of the island to explore, and two more wonderfully unique Balearic Islands in Menorca and Ibiza. Watch this space.
The final word....
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| Yes Rosco. I deserved that... |
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