Every January the city of Palma celebrates the Festes de Sant Sebastia. On 20 January 1524, Sebastian was named patron saint of Palma, and around this date the city comes alive with music, sports, theatre, processions and of course, the famous fiestas.
Saint Sebastian was a Christian saint and martyr; his death by the Romans around the year 288. Sebastian is usually depicted in art and literature tied to a post and run through with arrows. Legend has it, he did not die by the arrows, but was later simply clubbed to death.
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Sebastian is also associated with the Black Death that decimated old Europe. During the 14th century, the random nature of infection in villages caused people to liken the plague to being shot by an army of archers. By association, and in desperation, villagers prayed for intercession of a saint associated with archers, which was Saint Sebastian. He was declared patron of plague sufferers of his reported cures of those afflicted with many diseases. He is also patron saint of athletes because of his physical endurance, and patron saint to all soldiers.
This nine day long Festes de Sebastia marks the end of a devastating plague which, as legend has it, ended when the relics of Saint Sebastian were brought to Palma.
During January Palma is transformed, with an endless list of activities catering for every facet of society. Theatre, cultural excursions, exhibitions, sport, charity events, social and religious organisations, political parties and music of every description takes to the streets at some point. A highlight is a midweek celebration of music and communal barbecues where ten sound stages are erected in Palma's many plazas, effectively turning the city centre into an open-ended music festival. As expected, celebrations continue well into the early hours.
The festival finale or aTIAr FOC takes place along the Palma waterfront, in the shadow of Palma's iconic La Seu Cathedral. The city centre is closed off to vehicles, with the Correfoc, processions of the Dimonis and Marxa de Besties taking thousands of spectators to an almighty climax of fire and noise.
The Correfoc refers to 'fire-runs', a practice common to the fiestas of Catalunya. Hundreds of individuals dress as devils, or dimonis, setting off fireworks into the crowds of spectators. This is an interactive event, with spectators deliberately running at the dimonis, effectively courting the advances of the fireworks.
The 'dancing with the devils' represents a ceremonial rite of purification, and therefore has much symbolism. Fire represents the cleansing of sin and warding off of evil spirits. Similarly fire has long represented abundance, purity and fertility throughout human history. Running at the fire for many also affirms a standing up to fears and oppression, whether religious, spiritual or political. The Correfoc in many ways was reborn in the late 70's due to the end of Franco's dictatorship, that for so long suppressed cultural traditions in Catalunya.
The Marxa de Besties (or bestiari) are figures representing fantastic beasts. Many are connected to the area from where they originate, while others the product of vivid human imagination. The dragon (drac) is the most common, while others include the eagle (àliga), the female mule (mulassa) the ox (bou) and the female dragon (víbria). As with the Dimonis, the Besties are loaded with fireworks, with a similar running at spectators lining the procession route.
Active participation in the Correfoc is a primal experience.
The only way to truly appreciate the Correfoc is to get involved and run with the procession. Mayhem is an understatement. For the better part of an hour there is no respite from the noise of incessant tribal drumming, firecrackers exploding in close proximity in every direction without let-up, and the frantic shouting of Dimonis and spectators. Heavy sulphur-laden air makes it difficult to breathe, with visibility in the thick of it quite limited. It is surreal to the senses.
The melee of hundreds of participants and unrelenting activity requires utmost concentration, especially for the many of photographers, amateur and professional, running with the procession. It rarely stops, making for a frenetic environment; collisions are regular and just part of the experience. Thick smoke and deafening noise only fuels the confusion. Ironically, as there is so much going on simultaneously, it is very hard to stop. The immediate experience is like a drug, and once you are in the thick of it, you are hooked and keep going back for more.
I have never been in the military, but can believe that this is what it might be like in a firefight with live ammunition. Amid the chaos, there is definitely a survival instinct at play, responding to the advancing mayhem. Perhaps it is the protection of San Sebastia; or the adrenaline pushing through your body - shaking extremities, a racing pulse, rapid shallow breathing and even tunnel vision. This is the same that athletes experience after a hard and sustained sprint.
For the thrill seekers, running with the Correfoc is right up there. Run with the devils, face up to the fire and confront your fears. This is truly liberating.
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